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Paris, France – An investigation by French newspaper Le Parisien has uncovered a widespread practice among some Paris cafes and bistros, where tourists are being served low-quality wine while being charged for premium labels. The exposé, published on April 24, 2025, has sparked outrage among visitors and wine producers alike, shedding light on a deceptive tactic targeting unsuspecting patrons, particularly in tourist-heavy areas.
The investigation involved two wine sommeliers who posed as English-speaking tourists, visiting various establishments across the French capital. They discovered that high-end wines, such as Chablis priced at €9 (approximately $10) per glass, were frequently replaced with cheaper alternatives like Sauvignon Blanc, which costs around €5 ($5.50). In some cases, waitstaff admitted to mixing leftover wines into a single bottle for “happy hour” or substituting expensive varieties with budget options to maximize profits.
“It’s a pity for the customer and for the image of the wine appellation,” said Giuberti, a hospitality worker quoted in the investigation. “This practice harms not only tourists but also the reputation of honest winemakers and restaurant owners.” A waitress named Sarah, with 30 years of experience, confessed to Le Parisien, “You can serve the wine you want. People don’t have the sense of taste to spot it.”
The scam appears to be particularly prevalent in popular tourist districts like Montmartre. Tristan, a former brasserie worker in the area, revealed that staff were instructed to avoid serving premium bottles too quickly, with owners reprimanding employees if expensive stock depleted rapidly. “Only once did a customer notice—he was a sommelier,” Tristan noted.
Jérôme Bauer, an Alsace winemaker and leader of the National Confederation of AOC (appellation contrôlée) wine producers, expressed concern over the long-term impact on the industry. “Cheating the customer rebounds on us, the producers,” he told Le Parisien. “A customer who orders a Côte du Rhône but gets a Bordeaux may be disappointed and turn away from that wine in the future.”
French law requires that wine served by the glass be poured from the bottle in front of the customer, with the label visible. Experts advise tourists to insist on this practice to ensure they receive the wine they paid for. “It’s a simple step that can prevent being duped,” Bauer added.
The revelations have prompted calls for stricter oversight of Paris’s hospitality industry, with some urging authorities to enforce existing regulations more rigorously. Meanwhile, social media platforms like X have buzzed with reactions, with users expressing dismay but little surprise. “Forget about it, Jacques. It’s Paris-town,” quipped one user, while another lamented, “This is why you stick to bottled beer in tourist traps.”
As Paris continues to attract millions of visitors annually, the scandal serves as a reminder for tourists to stay vigilant when indulging in the city’s famed cafe culture. For now, the allure of sipping fine French wine at a charming sidewalk bistro comes with a caveat: check the bottle, or you might be toasting with “plonk” instead of prestige.